petemillar
04-07-2002, 05:05 AM
I have an ipaq 3635. I bought the Datanation DIY Silver Slider "clone" and thought I was pretty slick. Then came the problem. Where could I get a case to fit. I tried a few and they were just not what I wanted. They had belt clips, they had wrapround closing straps, everything was loose, they just didn't look or feel right. I toyed with the idea of selling the DIY SS and going back to the origional CF Sleeve..... It's a brick.... I saw that Whitney LuBean was modifying the Krusell cases and I was tempted. However there is a bit of a waiting list and it had a wrapround closing strap and it had a belt clip and the CF card was exposed. So I decided that if you want something the way you want it then do it yourself. The result is just about the slimmest and sexyest case (well in my opinion) that you can get.
I stripped the PCB out of the sleeve and used a pair of heavy duty kitchen scissors to trim the board (if you decide to do this make sure you file the edges at an angle so that the layers are not in contact). I split the case at the bottom and the inside material and slid the PCB between the flexicard backing and layer of condensed sponge. I was going to cut the bottom leather off which would have made the case syncable in the cradel but I use an USB power / sync cable (means I can use the ipaq while it is charging - it also has a car cigarette lighter adapter). I stripped out the metal stud / popper from the back and inserted a small piece of leather to fill in the small hole. I took off the wrapround strap and put on 2 small strips of velcro to keep the case closed.
I didn't bondo the PCB as the flexiboard is fairly strong and protective for the back and the compressed rubber and inner fabric is reasonable protection on the inside.
I have since done 5 more cases for friends and have improved on the "design". On the first, I left on the thin metal sleeve for the CF card. There is no real need to do this. The inside finish is now much tidier (the first time you do this you don't know what to expect) when you cut into the case.
From the pictures you will see that I canaballised the DIY SS (which really turned out to be very poor quality indeed (not Datanation's fault - they don't actually make them) - the sliver paint started to wear off after several days) to put the connection cover on the bottom of the PCB.
It really was a buzz (bit of a nail biter too) when everything worked and the case was just what I wanted. I have several more "orders" and I am going to try one on a different case with a magnetic closure strap which should also sync in the cradle and another one with a clip.
I have put up pictures on a webpage
www.woopdeedoo.com
so people can see the before and after. I have tried 2 different cases.
I have affectionately called it the Woopdeedoo case because that's just what it is...whoowhoo..... Woopdeedoo!!!!!!!!
I wont claim that my Woopdeedoo case is anything like a Vaja or one of Whitney's works of art but it does exactly what I want. It's thin and slim and feels great.
I have a rudimentary FAQ on the site which I will add to and links to other modifications in case other people want to try their hand at it.
Pete
I stripped the PCB out of the sleeve and used a pair of heavy duty kitchen scissors to trim the board (if you decide to do this make sure you file the edges at an angle so that the layers are not in contact). I split the case at the bottom and the inside material and slid the PCB between the flexicard backing and layer of condensed sponge. I was going to cut the bottom leather off which would have made the case syncable in the cradel but I use an USB power / sync cable (means I can use the ipaq while it is charging - it also has a car cigarette lighter adapter). I stripped out the metal stud / popper from the back and inserted a small piece of leather to fill in the small hole. I took off the wrapround strap and put on 2 small strips of velcro to keep the case closed.
I didn't bondo the PCB as the flexiboard is fairly strong and protective for the back and the compressed rubber and inner fabric is reasonable protection on the inside.
I have since done 5 more cases for friends and have improved on the "design". On the first, I left on the thin metal sleeve for the CF card. There is no real need to do this. The inside finish is now much tidier (the first time you do this you don't know what to expect) when you cut into the case.
From the pictures you will see that I canaballised the DIY SS (which really turned out to be very poor quality indeed (not Datanation's fault - they don't actually make them) - the sliver paint started to wear off after several days) to put the connection cover on the bottom of the PCB.
It really was a buzz (bit of a nail biter too) when everything worked and the case was just what I wanted. I have several more "orders" and I am going to try one on a different case with a magnetic closure strap which should also sync in the cradle and another one with a clip.
I have put up pictures on a webpage
www.woopdeedoo.com
so people can see the before and after. I have tried 2 different cases.
I have affectionately called it the Woopdeedoo case because that's just what it is...whoowhoo..... Woopdeedoo!!!!!!!!
I wont claim that my Woopdeedoo case is anything like a Vaja or one of Whitney's works of art but it does exactly what I want. It's thin and slim and feels great.
I have a rudimentary FAQ on the site which I will add to and links to other modifications in case other people want to try their hand at it.
Pete