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View Full Version : A Week with the Canon 20D


Jason Kravitz
09-27-2004, 05:00 PM
<img src="http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/images/kravitz_20D.gif" /><br /><br /><b>Product Category:</b> Digital camera<br /><b>Manufacturer:</b> <a href="'http://www.canon.com'">Canon</a><br /><b>Where to Buy:</b> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?tag=jasondunn-20&path=tg/detail/-/B0002XQI2E/qid%3D1096147818/sr%3D1-1">Amazon</a> [Affiliate]<br /><b>Price:</b> $1499.99 USD (body only)<br /><b>Specifications:</b> Professional Grade Single Lens Reflex, 8.2 megapixel DIGIC II Sensor, magnesium alloy shell, Compact Flash Type I/II, 1.6x field of view crop, USB 2.0.<br /><br /><b>Pros:</b><li>5fps for fast continuous shooting;<br /><li>Accepts Canon EF/EF-S lenses;<br /><li>Improved Auto-Focus;<br /><li>Improved image quality higher ISO.<b>Cons:</b><ul><li>None yet.</ul><br /><b>Summary:</b><br />In April 2000 Canon released the D30, a 3.1 megapixel digital SLR camera. Two years later they released the D60 followed by the 10D and now, the latest mid-range digital SLR, the 8.2 megapixel 20D. Each release has incorporated new technology from Canon's higher end models while remaining around the same $1500-$2000 price point. The 20D combines many base features from its predecessors with some new features from its big brother the 1D Mark II. Bob Heald has written an excellent introduction to the 1D Mark II which can be found <a href="'http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5729'">here</a>. For those of you interested in the 20D, read on for the full review!<br /><!> <br /><PAGEBREAK><br /><span><b>Introduction</b></span><br />I had made up my mind to buy a Canon 10D soon after returning from a snowy winter vacation to Portland, Oregon. My 300D (Canon's entry level digital SLR) could handle ninety percent of what I needed but there were a few times where I found myself limited by the lack of features such as mirror lockup, choice of metering mode, choice of auto focus mode, flash exposure compensation, and frame rate. I bought the 300D just a few months before and the 10D had been out a while, so I decided to wait for Canon to release the next version of the 10D and then reevaluate my needs. Eight months later, I swept up the first round of 20D's from a local camera store and here are my initial impressions. There are a lot more comprehensive and technical reviews around the web so the purpose of this article is to give my overall impressions without trudging through the numbers.<br /><br /><span><b>Out of the Box and Into my Hands</b></span><br />The camera came with the typical accessories one might expect<li>BP511A Lithium Ion rechargeable battery;<br /><li>Battery charger;<br /><li>Neck Strap;<br /><li>Software drivers for direct connection to a Windows or Mac PC;<br /><li>Image editing software for RAW images;<br /><li>Assorted cables: video out for connection to TV, USB cable;<br /><li>Owners manual, software manual and quick reference guide (English and Spanish).<br />Since I already have a few lenses from my 300D, I purchased the camera without a lens. There are several 20D kits available with different lenses. The battery is a new model and is supposed to last 25% longer (around 1000 exposures at room temperature). The camera also accepts the same battery from the 10D/300D so I pulled out one of my old charged batteries and started shooting.<br /><br />One of the most important features of a camera is how comfortable it feels in your hand. This one felt pretty good to me. The magnesium alloy body, which should be familiar to 10D shooters, had a much denser balanced feel than the plastic body of the 300D. The rubber curved grip fit my hand nicely. At 1.5 pounds, the camera is a near perfect balance between a weighty feel without being overly heavy.<br /><br />The first noticeable technical improvement of the 20D was the power up time. I turned the switch to the on position and the camera was ready to go before I could hold it up to my face. When the camera turns itself off, after a user configurable time interval, pressing the shutter button powers it back on near instantaneously. This is a much desired improvement over the sluggish startup of my 300D.<br /><br />The viewfinder appeared bright and crisp. The 20D has a new 9-point CMOS auto-focus (AF) sensor. The AF points appear in a tight diamond shape in the viewfinder. This is an improvement over the 300D/10D's 7 AF points. The camera does a reasonable job of selecting which object in the scene gets the focus. I typically prefer to override this functionality and use the center point to ensure that I get my subject in focus without relying on the camera to choose for me.<br /><br />The auto focus was extremely fast and responsive with both my 17-40mm f/4.0 lens and my 400mm f/5.6 lens. Even my 75-300mm lens which at times seems to focus in slow motion appeared to move a little faster on the 20D. Canon claims the 20D will focus one stop better in low light than the 10D. This was a welcome improvement, especially given my first shooting conditions.<br /><br />I picked up the camera the day hurricane Ivan was moving through Atlanta and when I got home my power was out so I had to conduct my initial exploration by candle light. I figured this was a good time to test one of the advertised improvements of the 20D, less noise at higher ISO.<br /><PAGEBREAK><br /><span><b>A Candle in the Dark</b></span><br />Despite my tripod sitting two feet away from me, I decided to see how well this camera performs handheld in a low light situation. Canon claims that image quality on the 20D at ISO 1600 is comparable to the 10D shooting at ISO 400. While I didn't have a 10D to verify the difference, you can see by this photo that the 20D does do a good job.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/images/kravitz_20D_fig1.jpg" /><br /><i>Figure 1: These candles were shot at ISO 1600. Notice the lack of noise in the black areas. With my 300D, the black would have a bunch of colored static noise. This image was reduced from the native 3504x2306 pixels so some of the noise could be compressed down. See below for a 100% crop of the image.</i><br /><br /><img src="http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/images/kravitz_20D_fig2.jpg" /><br /><i>Figure 2: This is a 400x267 section of the far candle in the image above which is called a 100% crop because it is the actual pixels at actual size. Notice the black area is still clean with little noticeable noise in the table or glass.</i><br /><br />I spent the remainder of the rainy evening playing around with the camera. The built-in flash works in a pinch however, as with the 10D, 300D and most digital SLRs, an external flash is recommended for any serious shooting. The 20D is the first Canon camera to offer E-TTL II technology which basically translates to getting better exposures using a flash. Most flashes, both on-board and external, can be fooled by reflections or high contrast scenes and this new TTL, or through the lens technology, is supposed to make the flash smarter about how it interprets a scene. The main advantage is that it uses the focal length of the lens in its calculations. I did not see a huge difference with the built-in flash compared to my old camera - I'll have to do more testing once my new external flash arrives.<br /><br /><span><b>Rapid Fire</b></span><br />One noticeable difference between 20D and previous models is the shutter click. The 20D is much louder than previous models, pressing the button for a single frame emits a healthy ca-chunk. Reading through various camera forums it seems there is a mixed opinion about this. Wildlife shooters are worried it might scare the critters away, users of higher end digital and film cameras claim this is what a camera is supposed to sound like and the previous models sound like a children's toy in comparison. I personally find the shutter sound to be soothing in an abrupt sudden sort of way. I enjoy photographing birds in the early morning hours so I'll have to go out and see if it will really send them flying away; somehow I don't think it will make much of a difference.<br /><br />The official spec says the camera can shoot 5 frames per second (up to 23 at a time). I was able to take about 35-40 consecutive large high quality jpeg shots before the camera stopped to breathe. That should be quite sufficient to catch the action in a variety of sports or wildlife situations. For those of you shooting in RAW or RAW+JPEG you will be slowed down to 6 frames in one burst.<br /><br />I played around with the faster frame rate at a local park and took the shots shown below:<br /><br /><img src="http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/images/kravitz_20D_fig3.jpg" /><br /><i>Figure 3: Capture the action frame by frame. The 20D will shoot 5fps and it can shoot and write to the card simultaneously. Although the focus is a bit off, these three shots illustrate why wildlife and sports shooters will enjoy the faster frame rate of the 20D.</i><br /><br />The ability to shoot and write to the card at the same time is a new feature and makes the camera appear more responsive. On the 300D I often got a "Busy" message while the camera was catching up writing to the card. This problem has been alleviated with the 20D. Using a high speed CF card improves performance even more.<br /><br />In addition to a faster frame rate, the 20D has a faster 1/8000 second shutter and a higher flash synch speed up to 1/250 second. Both of which provide even more creative flexibility when shooting action. Using certain Canon external EX flashes the flash will synch at high speed to the full 1/8000 of a second.<br /><PAGEBREAK><br /><span><b>Artistic Flair</b></span><br />Like its predecessors, the 20D offers several parameters to adjust image contrast, sharpness, saturation and color tone. There is also a new black and white shooting mode with a few creative features.<br /><br />The black and white filter effects provide the ability to apply different colored filters to the image much like using a physical screw on filter with black and white film. Yellow, orange, red and green filters all alter the image by enhancing like colors. For example, the green filter makes green objects such as plants and trees appear more vivid in the exposure.<br /><br />The tone effects change the overall color of the image. It can be set to a choice of sepia, blue, purple and green to create an effect similar to chemical toning. The following images below are a sample of the toning effect.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.digitalmediathoughts.com/images/kravitz_20D_fig4.jpg" /><br /><i>Figure 4: These three images were shot in the black in white mode with the toning effect. From left to right they are using purple, green and blue toning effect.</i><br /><br />Granted most people shoot in color and do their black and white conversions in an image editor, the new features provide an extra way to get creative with your camera. Black and white purists will probably find the canned effects limiting although there is a decent degree of customization available by tweaking the contrast and sharpness dials.<br /><br /><span><b>Conclusions</b></span><br />A faster frame rate, improved auto-focus, better image quality at higher ISO all contribute to the success of this latest offering. For Canon shooters wondering if the 20D is worth the upgrade from previous models it's hard to say. For me, there are many improvements over the 300D, however, 10D users might not find enough difference to trade up. For those folks out there looking to get into the digital SLR market, the 20D is a perfect blend of high end features with an affordable price tag.<br /><br />Several 20D users around the web have complained about various new product bugs and glitches, such as lockups and error messages. I've been using my 20D steady all week without any problem at all. So far I'm quite pleased with my purchase. Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments about the 20D.<br /><br />For image samples, visit my photo blog at <a href="'http://jason.aminus3.com'">http://jason.aminus3.com</a>

mrkablooey
09-28-2004, 01:25 AM
nice review. :)
something to compare to the D70 I've been spying.

David Prahl
09-28-2004, 03:41 AM
Excellent review, Jason (Kravitz)!

I currently have a Powershot G3 and am looking to upgrade. Not to a 20D, but maybe a 300D Rebel or 10D.

Jason Dunn
09-28-2004, 04:29 AM
Great review - the 20D looks wickedly cool! :-D

Bob12
09-28-2004, 04:41 AM
Nice review. Something you might want to consider (if you haven't already done so) is the addition of the battery grip - not so much for the ability to hold two batteries, but for the balance it provides with your larger lenses. I had my D60 for about a month and a half waiting for the battery grip. The difference was significant. In my case, there was an added bonus in that the camera was much more stable on a counter or table with the external flash (the Canon 550) because I keep my quick disconnect plate attached to the tripod mount of the 35-350 lens and the addition of the battery grip made the bottom of the camera line up nicely with the bottom of the plate.

Neil Enns
09-28-2004, 06:52 AM
I'll second the recommendation for the vertical grip. I've had one on my 10D since I got it, and the only time it comes off is when I need to be more, uh, svelte with the camera. It greatly improves the handholdability of the camera.

Neil

Jason Kravitz
09-28-2004, 03:08 PM
Thanks everyone for your comments.

mrkablooey - I've heard nothing but good things about the D70 - one of my friends who recently purchased a D70 tried the continuous mode on my 20D and was quite animated with excitement about the difference in performance although I'm sure Nikon will continue to upgrade their bodies accordingly if you choose to go the Nikon route.

David - 10D and 300D are both excellent cameras and should prove a worthy upgrade from the G3. If you plan to do a lot of telephoto shooting (like birds or wildlife) or macro, you might consider the mirror lockup feature on the 10D (every bit of stabilization helps!)

Neil,Bob - I never tried the battery grip for the 300D but now I'm curious to try the grip for the 20D. I'll give it a test at the store to see how it feels.

Neil Enns
09-28-2004, 04:34 PM
David - 10D and 300D are both excellent cameras and should prove a worthy upgrade from the G3. If you plan to do a lot of telephoto shooting (like birds or wildlife) or macro, you might consider the mirror lockup feature on the 10D (every bit of stabilization helps!)

If you're shooting wildlife mirror lockup won't help much since it add a 2 second delay to each shot you take. It is, however, invaluable for macro photography.

Neil

Jason Kravitz
09-28-2004, 04:48 PM
Good point Neil. I was thinking more of birds perched on a tree or wire - they sit pretty still and don't make many expressions - however, most other animals are usually on the move and if you are trying to catch them doing something cute or funny it is hard with a two second delay!

SassKwatch
10-02-2004, 12:36 AM
Can you tell me a little about the metering options? The one thing that disappointed me when I first saw this one was the lack of a spot meter.

Jason Kravitz
10-02-2004, 04:26 PM
20d has three meter options

Evaluative - best general purpose, similar to Nikon matrix metering - does a respectable job in most situations.

Parital - meters everything in the small circle in the center of the view finder. This is your best spot replacement as you can fill the center circle with whatever part of the scene you would have used the spot on. It's a little more work, easier with telephoto then wide angle but yields similar results to spot meter.

Centerweight Average - Meter is weighted at the center and averaged for the rest of the scene. I have not used this one as much so I can't offer any practical advice. Other Canon shooters might have more insight on this one.

With all metering modes (even using external spot) I typically shoot in manual and don't trust what the meter tells me unless the scene is predominantly middle gray. I use a loose form of the zone system to adjust the camera's recommendation.

Spot would have been nice but it seems Canon (unlike Nikon) reserves this feature for the high end SLR's. It's not a show stopper for me although if you are coming from another SLR body that has spot meter you might be used to shooting with it and your needs are different than mine.

Let me know if this answers you question...

jason

SassKwatch
10-02-2004, 05:03 PM
Answers the question just fine.

IMO, the old addage 'shoot for the highlights' has never been truer than it is in digital shooting. Hence, I've become rather dependent on a spot reading. So, you're right....the 'Parital' mode is what I'd tend to use most. And can understand why it would be a bit more difficult to mimic a spot when shooting in wide angle (depends on the shot, of course)....which is what concerns me as I tend to shoot a lot more in WA than tele.

Would also be interested to hear how you employ the zone system in digital work. I tend to shoot in manual mode as well. Though it took me a while, I finally got around to seeing the value of a live histogram after reading an article on exposure using the histogram over at Luminous Landscape. Using spot metering and the technique described in that article, I thought I was getting about as close to the Zone System as was likely to be the case in digital. (But maybe this is getting a bit off topic and best reserved for another article.)

Jason Kravitz
10-02-2004, 06:24 PM
It is a pretty loose version of a proper zone system - I take a lot of liberties and usually don't follow my own rules ;-)

Basically... minus 1 1/2 - 2 stop for black or near black, minus 1 stop for dark tones or shaded scene, zero for "middle gray" in color translating to tans, neutral colors etc, plus 1 stop for pastels, pinks, yellows, flowers etc, and plus 1 1/2 - 2 stops for snow, white fur, etc

I also tend to bracket a lot unconsciously - not using the cameras auto bracket features but shoot, spin dial, shoot, etc etc

Again it is what you are used to...

Shoot for the highlights is certainly a good way to go - I admittedly have gotten hooked on Photoshops "Shadow and Highlight" tool and end up filling in some blown out features before posting a photo as a crutch - that combined with "digital blending" has been useful as well. Obviously the goal is to get the shot right the first time so anything you can do to achieve that helps!

I'll check out the articles on Luminous - I think I read the zone one a while ago and if I recall is similar to what I am doing with maybe a little more calculating (I tend to zone one item in the scene instead of calculating the different zones for the whole picture and adjusting - unless there is a large difference)

What camera are you using now?

SassKwatch
10-02-2004, 11:40 PM
It is a pretty loose version of a proper zone system - I take a lot of liberties and usually don't follow my own rules ;-)
Breakin' 'em is the only thing rules are good for in the creative world. :)

I admittedly have gotten hooked on Photoshops "Shadow and Highlight" tool
I hear ya. I got a little too infatuated with that one when I first picked up CS as well. I've found that the default settings in that one are *WAY* too heavy-handed for most situations...at least for me.

I'll check out the articles on Luminous -
Here's the one I was speaking of....
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

What camera are you using now?
Still stuck on a Minolta D7Hi. Get excited every time a new DSLR is announced, but thus far, every one of them has lacked something I felt important. The 20D may yet cause me to fork over the plastic....just need to feel confident I can live w/o the spot meter.

Philip Colmer
10-11-2004, 09:03 PM
From some of the body shots I've seen, it looks as if the 20D retains the dial on the back of the case that the 10D has.

How hard is it to turn this dial, and what is it used for?

The reason I'm asking is because my wife is interested is getting a Canon digital SLR but is concerned that the arthritis in her fingers might prevent her from being able to manipulate this dial.

Thanks.

--Philip

Jason Kravitz
10-11-2004, 09:36 PM
Hey Philip - I have not used the 10D so I am not sure if it is the same wheel dial. The wheel on the 20D turns very easily for me.

It is used for a few different things...

When viewing images, it is used to scroll through your pictures

When shooting, it has different uses based on shooting mode. If you are in (M)anual mode, spinning the wheel changes the f/stop (while spinning the dial near the shutter button on top of the camera changes shutter speed). The dial on top is harder to turn but is used more often - I think it is pretty much the same with other SLRs.

There are also a few option buttons at the top of the camera - pressing each one sets one of two different function. The top dial controls one function and the back dial controls the other function.

I don't have the camera in front of me but the buttons are something like (White Balance/ISO , Focus Mode/Metering Mode, Continuous Shooting vs. Single vs. Timer and Flash Exposure Compensation)

Overall, in normal shooting I find myself spinning the top dial the most and the back dial less. I'd say the top dial is harder to turn and the back dial turns pretty easily. I spin the top dial with my index finger and the back dial with my thumb.

I guess the best thing would be to track one down at a store and try it out.

hope that helps!

Jason

Philip Colmer
10-11-2004, 09:54 PM
hope that helps!
Thanks, Jason - it does. We were going to go a hunting anyway, but this has reassured me a bit in advance :-)

--Philip

Littleshmee
10-14-2004, 06:09 PM
The 20D and the 10D have pretty much the same controls... the major difference I find is that for my tiny hands, the 20D feels a lot better. I can reach both the wheel on the back and the wheel on the front at the same time, which I couldn't do on the 10D. I think for arthritic fingers the 20D would feel better - it's less of a stretch.

sdrosenthal
12-05-2004, 01:29 AM
Great review on the 20d. I have had mine for about a week now, and I am absolutely in love with this camera. I haven't touched a SLR in about a decade, and I have forgotten a lot! Out of the box experience builds confidence quickly. In a pinch this camera works really well in Full Auto. Worst case you can switch to Program Mode and shoot in RAW + JPEG, have a great JPEG, and then go back and edit the RAW file as you get better at using Photoshop or another like program.

I would definetly recommend this camera for someone that is very interested in learning about photography, and of course having at least 1500 bucks helps! :?

Philip Colmer
12-05-2004, 11:49 AM
We managed to buy one in the end and my wife is very happy with it. The program controls are the same as her film Canon camera so the learning curve hasn't been too sharp.

What I really love about this camera, though, are the little touches like it knowing when you've taken a portrait shot and rotating the image on the viewer. Note, though, that it doesn't rotate the JPEG file - it just sets a flag in it - a flag that products like Photoshop understands and so reduces the loss of quality.

Another feature that I'm looking forward to trying out is setting the camera into B&amp;W mode and using the "virtual" colour filters. My son bought my wife an orange filter for her birthday one year, to go with a B&amp;W film in order to enhance the contrast. The drawback, of course, is that you are then taking 36 B&amp;W photos.

Not any more - a few button presses and you are back in colour land! An example of how digital cameras are offering great versatility.

One final thing I'm wanting to try out - computer controlled photos. With the loss of time lapse videos in Premiere, an alternative is to use a digital camera and take photos under computer control. You can then string the photos together in a video editor and - hey presto! - you've got time lapse!

--Philip