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View Full Version : The Digital Wall Project: An Epic Tale


Jason Dunn
05-25-2009, 03:00 PM
<p><em>Before reading further, if you haven't read my <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/89831/i-m-doing-a-digital-wall-upgrade-suggestions-welcome.html" target="_blank">initial article on this project</a> (and <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/90139/my-digital-wall-audio-conundrum-powered-or-non-powered-speakers.html" target="_blank">the follow-up</a>), please check it out for the background and design goals of this project.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876124.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p>Remember the <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/89831/i-m-doing-a-digital-wall-upgrade-suggestions-welcome.html" target="_blank">digital wall project</a> I talked about in July 2008? In the latter part of 2008, it was finally completed: the results are shown above [<a href="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/dht/2009/digitalwall1.jpg" target="_blank">high-res photo available</a>]. I love how it turned out, and everyone who sees it for the first time has the same response: "Wow, that looks great!". Like any home renovation project, this one had several stages; the final stage was trauma recovery. The project as a whole was so drawn-out and frustrating that it's only months after it's finished that I feel I can write about it without spewing expletives on your screen. My hope is that by detailing the process, and results, anyone attempting a similar project will learn what to do - and what not to do, because I had never done anything like this before and have learnt a great deal from it. Let's get started! <MORE /></p><h1>Stage One: Planning &amp; Technology Selection</h1><p>The first stage was the planning stage: it involved me sourcing the professionals needed to complete the work. I might be able to tear down and re-build a computer with ease, but put a power tool in my hand and I'm much less sure of myself. We've done some minor home renovations, but I knew this one was beyond my admittedly basic skill level - so hiring competent people to do the job seemed like the smart thing to do. Little did I know this would prove to be more of a challenge than I thought! Both the carpenter and electrician we hired were family friends, so my hope was that because we knew them personally we'd end up with better results than hiring a stranger. It didn't work out that way, but that's part of all the "fun" with this project. The drywall guy I found, after much difficulty (see below), was a stranger.&nbsp;</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242946805.usr1.jpg" style="border: 0;" /></p><p><em>Figure 2: The LG 50PG70, the plasma TV I selected for this project.</em></p><p>The other part of this first stage was selecting the technologies I'd use for the project. I was initially leaning strongly toward an LCD TV, a Sharp Aquos in particular, but after doing some further in-store comparison and research, I ended up purchasing a 1080p 50 inch LG plasma TV (<a href="http://www.lge.com/products/model/detail/pg70 series.jhtml" target="_blank">50PG70</a>). The black levels are superb on it, and given that it wasn't going to be powered up very often (it's our secondary TV), I wasn't concerned about the increased power draw of plasma over LCD. Other TVs on my short list, and within my price range, were the <a href="http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/HomeEntertainment/PlasmaTVs+Monitors/Enhanced+Content/Televisions" target="_blank">Pioneer Kuros</a>, a 720p plasma set, and the <a href="http://www.panasonic.ca/english/audiovideo/plasma/index.asp" target="_blank">Panasonic Viera</a>, also a 720p plasma set (remember this is back in July of 2008). The Pioneer Kuros had delicious black levels and a great quality picture, but I was put off by being limited to 720p (the 1080p Kuros sets were <em>far </em>more expensive). In retrospect, the limitation of 720p probably wouldn't have been a bit deal. I think I got a little obsessed with getting a 1080p set and if I had to do it all over again I would have saved nearly $1000 and gotten the 720p version of the LG plasma. I'll talk more about my other equipment choices later on. <PAGE /></p><h1>Stage Two: The Electrician Does His Thing</h1><p>The second step was the tear down: a screwdriver was all we needed to remove the simple black shelves we had hung on the wall. If only the rest of the project was that easy! After moving all of our furniture into the corner of our main floor, to give the contractors lots of room to work, the electrician showed up for the first part of his work: ripping into the wall. This part of the story is best illustrated by a set of stage-by-stage photos.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242947255.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 3: After we removed our shelves and moved our furniture into the corner, this is what was left.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242947381.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 4: Drywall begone! There's no turning back now...</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242947437.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 5: The Vacuflo tubing is mounted in the wall.</em></p><p>We had discussed several plans with the electrician, and we determined that to give me the flexibility I wanted, running Vacuflo tubing inside the wall was the best course of action. It would give me the ability to run any sort of cable that I wanted, and while it wouldn't be as "pretty" as terminated wall-jacks, the panels would be completely hidden so it didn't matter much. The electrician quickly tore into the drywall, cut through parts of the studs required to run the Vacuflo tubing, and mounted the 2x8" piece of wood. The 2x8" was critical because we were going to mount the plasma TV at the centre point of the mantle above the fireplace, which happened to be in-between studs, so having the extra support was vital.</p><p>It's important to point out here that the measurements we gave the electrician were checked and re-checked several times, and cross-checked with the carpenter who was building the custom shelves for us. Every inch mattered, so we made sure everything was measured properly and we assumed the electrician would follow our measurements.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242947474.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 6: Our kitchen area was quite a disaster while this project was underway.</em> <PAGE /></p><h1>Stage 3: The Dry-Wall Guys Do Their Thing</h1><p>In July of 2008, the city I live in (Calgary) was in the midst of an economic boom. We're an oil town, so when oil prices are high money flows like water and construction projects are everywhere, putting people with trade skills in demand. I thought finding someone to do the drywall cutting, taping, patching, and sanding would prove to be easy - but it was anything but easy. I tried a few people that the electrician recommended, but none of them worked out due to the small nature of the job and how busy the contractors were. Some of you may be thinking "Um, Jason, it's just drywalling - can't you do that yourself?". I wasn't kidding about lacking do-it-yourself skills - I wanted to ensure this wall looked fantastic when it was completed, and I didn't trust my neophyte skills to do the job. At any rate, I ended up turning to <a href="http://calgary.kijiji.ca/" target="_blank">Kijiji</a> to find someone for this project. There weren't a lot of people to chose from, but I thought this was such a simple project, how could anyone screw it up? Because of that, I didn't ask for references from previous jobs. I really should have asked for references.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242947563.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 7: The drywall after the "professionals" were done with it.</em></p><p>I should have been alerted by the fact that the two-man crew showed up with almost no equipment - not even a drop cloth to catch some of the debris they'd be creating. Initially it seemed like things were going OK, and other than dust getting everywhere, there were no real problems. Before they did the final sanding we covered as much of our couches as we could in garbage bags because I realized, belatedly, that they weren't using one of those vaccum-sanders that trapped most of the drywall dust.</p><p>After they were finished I phoned my father-in-law, who happens to be a Journeyman painter, and hired him to paint the wall. Unfortunately he discovered that the drywall "pros" didn't mix their drywall mud properly and there were more than two-dozen spots that had air bubbles and couldn't be painted over properly. He had to re-mud and re-sand all the spots you see below before he could paint the wall. Thanks drywall guys, way to go. Professional fail #1.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242948525.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 8: Just a "few" areas that need re-patching and re-sanding.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242949230.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 9: After the patches were painted over we realized that the paint we thought was a match was a fair bit off. The whole wall was going to be painted with the new colour, but that meant it would be a different colour than the adjoining walls. We ended up having to re-paint the whole main floor of our house, but after seven years it was due for a new coat anyway. In the software world that's called "Scope Creep".</em><PAGE /></p><h1>Stage 4: Matt &amp; I Do Our Thing</h1><p>A good friend of mine named Matt happens to have a fair amount of experience with mounting wall displays, so I was confident with his help I get that lovely LG plasma TV up the wall without making a complete mess of things. It didn't quite turn out that way, but I swear it wasn't our fault! I bought the nicest, most expensive TV mounting bracket that the electronics store had. It would allow me to move the TV left, right, forward, and backward. Sounds cool, right? We measured the wall, and the mounting plate for the bracket, several times and started drilling. The first surprise was that we didn't find wood where we expected to. The 2x8" that the electrician was supposed to install? It seems that he decided to install a 2x6" piece of wood instead. Professional fail #2. So we lost two inches of space there. After we got that part figured out, which involved drilling a new hole in the steel mounting bracket, we mounted it without much trouble.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242950352.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 10: Matt and his drill. His drill is way cooler than my drill. It has more gigawatts...or something.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242951075.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 11: After we got it mounted we put some weight on it to ensure it would support the TV, and it was locked in there solidly. The ugly electrical outlet and Vacu-flo outlet would be covered by the TV, so I didn't put any cover plates on them.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242951166.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 12: Umm...dude? That doesn't quite look right!</em></p><p>After we put up the TV, which was a bit of a heavy beast, we immediately noticed we had a problem: it wasn't centred on the wall! It was several inches too far to the left. How did that happen you might ask? Turns out that what we didn't realize was that while the mounting bracket was perfectly centred on the wall, the part of the bracket that attaches to the TV, when pushed back to it's starting position (closest to the wall), is off centre. There's no indication on either bracket as to where the "true" centre point is, nor is there any mention of this in the article. Measuring the true centre point was quite difficult, so I got fed up and simply returned the bracket. Professional fail #3 for the salesperson not telling me this wasn't a good bracket to use over a mantle (which I told him about). In its place, I purchased a very simple mounting bracket, something that was easy to align with the centre of the mantle.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/zt/auto/1242964578.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 13: The ugly mess we left on the freshly painted wall once we removed the bracket.</em>&nbsp;<PAGE /></p><h1>Stage 5: The Carpenter Does His Thing</h1><p>As I mentioned earlier, the carpenter we hired was a family friend, and as a master carpenter we felt he had the skills to pull off the shelves we wanted. In the weeks leading up to this project, we met with him twice and we sent emails back and forth - he came up with a design, we modified it a bit to make room for the speakers, and we came to an agreement on the final design. We were excited to see the final design, and paid him a deposit up front.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242964809.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 14: Look at the size of that shelving unit. Wow!</em></p><p>When the shelves arrived and were being installed, at first glance they looked fantastic - exactly what we had envisioned. The carpenter did a great job of securing all the pieces together, making it look like one continuous flow of wood - and they were designed to hang on the wall without visible support above or below. When the shelves were being attached to the wall, the carpenter informed me that he couldn't mount the left-hand shelving unit at the height we requested - which matched the shelving unit on the right - because the electrician had mounted the Vacuflo panel 1.5 inches higher than it was supposed to be. Not having any other choice (the right shelving unit was already up), I authorized him to mount the left shelving unit at the necessary height. Professional fail #4. Thankfully, it's not noticeable - but it's irritating to know that the electrician decided to get "inventive" with yet another of my measurements.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242965104.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 15: They look good, right? Well...</em></p><p>I didn't look closely at the shelves while they were being installed because I didn't want to get in the way. Once the shelves were up, I took a closer look at them, and grew a bit concerned. The finish was supposed to match our coffee table - a very dark brown. I knew it wouldn't be a perfect match, but an approximation would be good enough. The colour wasn't the problem - the lack of a uniform finish was. In dozens of spots all over the shelves, all in very visible locations, the finish wasn't even. This wasn't a nice woodgrain showing through, it was the finish lifting and getting smeared. I know nothing about finishing wood, but I didn't think that was normal.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242965471.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 16: One of the man spots where the finish was uneven.</em></p><p>Equally noticeable was that the shelving unit on the right wasn't mounted straight. The entire middle section was tilted upward, and quite obviously so - the whole thing was torqued clockwise, likely from the pressure the design was exerting upon itself. In fact, in the upper portion of the left shelf, the narrow vertical portion wasn't evenly spaced from top to bottom. There were also numerous spots on both shelves where the nails were popping up slightly, and knots in the wood that were improperly filled. So from ten feet away the crooked shelf was obvious, and up close the flawed fit and finish was obvious. Professional fail #5.</p><p>The carpenter came back and said that we were "eagle-eyed" for noticing the crooked shelf and insisted it wouldn't be obvious to anyone else. When my friend Matt saw the shelves for the first time he asked if we knew one was crooked. We even bought a new level in case our old one was dysfunctional. The carpenter came back again to discuss the finish, and he explained that he had never stained anything that dark before, and the store he bought the stain from had told him that doing a brown stain first, followed by a black stain, was the right approach. They also told him that the sealing top coat he used was compatible with the stains he used - it wasn't, because as he sealed it, the stain was being lifted. He admitted to us that he wasn't happy with the finish, but he didn't know what to do about it. From our point of view, we were paying him for the product, not the store that sold him the stains, so we held him responsible for delivering an acceptable product.</p><p>After a month of discussions and negotiations, we informed the carpenter that he would not be receiving the remainder of his payment for the shelves until they were mounted on the wall straight, and the finish was improved. We called in my father in-law, who also happens to have experience working with wood. In the end the only realistic solution for us was for him to paint the shelves black. We'd lose the look of the wood grain, but the stain was so dark you had to be six inches away to see the wood grain anyway. To the credit of the carpenter, he covered the cost of hiring my father in-law to paint the shelves, and in the end they looked quite good painted a semi-gloss black.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242966451.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 17: Before the shelves could be painted, the finish had to be roughed up with sand paper (so the pain would absorb) and the various nail pops and wood knots had to be filled and sanded.</em></p><p>Once the shelves were painted, it was time to implement the technology elements. <PAGE /></p><h1>Stage 6: I Do My Thing</h1><p>I spend quite a bit of time researching the best equipment to get, so by the time it came time to purchased I knew what I wanted. I was such a fan of the <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/31342/the-sweet-sound-of-audioengine-a5-speakers.html" target="_blank">AudioEngine A5 speakers</a> when I reviewed them that it was a no-brainer to use them for the digital wall - in black, naturally. Not having to <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/90139/my-digital-wall-audio-conundrum-powered-or-non-powered-speakers.html" target="_blank">fuss with an amplifier</a> was what tipped me in favour of the AudioEngine speakers over the Orb Audio speakers. One of my requirements was that the speakers have two audio inputs: one for the networked media player I'd be connecting, and one for the computer I'd be connecting. Why two? Having to fire up a plasma TV to start Windows Media Player on the computer to listen to music seemed more than a little silly. The inputs on the A5 speakers are plain old 3.5mm jacks, so I was going analog all the way. Sure, a SPDIF input would have been nice, but I have zero complaints about the quality of the audio.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1242967132.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 18: The great-looking and great-sounding AudioEngine A5 powered speakers. The flash on the camera made the grey look lighter than it really is. They look almost completely black.</em></p><p>I wanted a sub-woofer to go alongside the A5 speakers, so my natural choice was the AudioEngine A8 sub-woofer. It was a bit pricey at $350 CAD, but after purchasing it I tested it with a variety of music and it sounded superb. Tight, thumping bass with nary any distortion - until I removed the legs. The tall, pointed plastic legs (see Figure 19) screwed into the bottom of the sub-woofer, but in doing so it made the unit too tall to fit under my bottom shelf. That's right: with all my measuring, I neglected to measure the space required for the sub-woofer. I didn't purchase it until after the shelves were up, so I didn't put much thought into that part of the project. The A8 sub-woofer is down-firing, so I needed a certain amount of clearance between the floor and the speaker. I tried finding substitute legs, but struck out - and the screw-holes needed to be air-tight or the sub-woofer would start to rattle. You know those "fuzzy feet" you put on the underside of your chairs if you have hardwood floors? I put one over each screw hole, which made the holes air tight, and stacked several more on top to raise the sub-woofer off the ground. It's not pretty, but it works, and you'd have to be laying on the ground to see how silly they look. Problem solved!</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1243023068.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 19: The AudioEngine A8 sub-woofer. Little did I know those pointy plastic legs were making dents in my hardwood floor.</em></p><p>When it came to picking what would power the whole thing, I entertained a few different options - a Media Center Extender, a Blu-ray DVD player, a networked media player, etc. At one point I was looking at an HP TV that had the Media Center Extender software built-in - but I knew that I wanted to have a Web browser as well. I ended up going for the slightly less elegant solution, but all in all a much more powerful one: a full-fledged PC. I initially purchased a <a href="http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/90427/dell-studio-hybrid-desktop-deep-dive-video-series.html" target="_blank">Dell Studio Hybrid</a> computer, but after two different units (the second with a very fast CPU) and weeks of testing, it came down to one thing: the Studio Hybrid computer simply didn't have the GPU power I needed to have a fast and fluid experience using Windows Media Center. I tried every tweak and hack there was to try and improve the performance of the machine, but in the end the Intel GMA 4500 GPU simply wasn't up to the task. Everything else about the Dell Studio Hybrid was perfect - the size, the silence, the design - but the graphics performance sucked.</p><p>I opted instead for an HP Slimline computer purchased from my local Best Buy. For only $100 more than what I paid for the Dell Studio Hybrid, I went from a two-core Intel CPU to a four-core AMD CPU, doubled the RAM (4 GB), doubled the hard drive (500 GB), added a combo Blu-ray/HD-DVD player, and most importantly, I had an NVIDIA 9500 GS graphics card with 512 MB RAM and HDMI out powering the whole thing. Windows Media Center was a smooth as butta'! What I gave up by going with the HP Slimline was size - it's taller than I wanted it to be - and it's nowhere near as silent as the Dell Studio Hybrid. It's not loud, but it's not completely silent either.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876207.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 20: The HP Slimline computer that powers the whole experience. I use an infrared "Microsoft Remote Keyboard for Windows XP Media Center Edition v.1.0" (I kid you not, that's the product name) as both the keyboard and mouse.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876220.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 21: On the left, the Logitech Squeezebox. On the right, the AudioEngine A5 speaker. I need to find a right-angle 3.5mm jack cable that lays flatter.</em></p><p>My previous method of playing audio was my much-loved <a href="http://www.roku.com/products_soundbridge.php" target="_blank">Roku Soundbridge M2000</a>, a product that has now been discontinued. It worked amazingly well, and was completely reliable, but it was too large to fit on the shelf alongside the AudioEngine A5 speaker on the right-hand shelf. I needed a new solution. After looking at several options, I landed on the <a href="http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/speakers_audio/wireless_music_systems/devices/3817&amp;cl=ca,en" target="_blank">Logitech Squeezebox Duet</a>. It was very small, and the idea of having the LCD screen in the remote control seemed like a slick idea. My review of this product is forthcoming, but in a nutshell the Squeezebox Duet is an amazingly powerful, but often-times quirky player that made me crave the simplicity and reliability of the Roku M2000. The Squeezebox delivers great-sounding audio however, and after getting it configured it's working really well. Or it was until I swapped out my Linksys WRT54G router for a Linksys WRT610N - it's done a few funky things since then, even though it's connected to the 802.11g network rather than the 802.11n network. I've had to do three factory resets because the remote gets into a weird state where it looks like it's fully connected, but it won't play any music. Look for more details in my review - when the Squeezebox works, which is most of the time, it works really well...but when it doesn't work, it's a little frustrating.<PAGE /></p><h1>Stage 7: Fit, Finish, Testing, Learning</h1><p>At long last, slightly over four months after I started this project, it was finished. It had a lot of frustrating elements, but in the end I'm ecstatic over the end result. The pictures say it all, so have a look.</p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876142.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 22: The left-hand shelf.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876155.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 23: The right-hand shelf.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876180.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 24: Playing some music off the HP Slimline computer while the Windows Media Center visualizer is dancing along to the beat.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876196.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 25: Another shot like the one before, just for fun.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1214882527.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 26: My wall before the project started.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com/resizer/thumbs/size/600/dht/auto/1238876124.usr1.jpg" style="border: 1px solid #d2d2bb;" /></p><p><em>Figure 27: My wall after the project was finished.</em></p><p>So would I do anything differently? Besides hiring different people to do the actual work, my one and only regret is that I didn't put the plasma TV lower on the wall. In day to day use when we're sitting on the couch, it's about four inches too high. It's not hard to see by any means, but we've noticed that we have to angle our heads up slightly, which isn't ideal. My friend Matt and I are going to take the TV down and explore some options for moving the mounting bracket down, so we'll see if we can lower it without having to make too big of a mess.</p><p>I'm also completely baffled by the lack of Windows Media Center-compatible music visualization software that's compatible with 64-bit Windows Vista. My all-time favourite music visualization plug-in is <a href="http://www.soundspectrum.com/g-force/index.html?src=home" target="_blank">G-Force</a>, made by SoundSpectrum, but even with 64-bit Vista being on the market for over two years, they still haven't released a version of their software that I can use on my HP Slimline computer. The visualizations that Microsoft bundles are completely lame and outdated - they haven't been changed since Windows XP. If anyone is aware of a music visualizer I should try, please let me know.</p><p>And that wraps up this epic tale! There was a lot of learning involved for me because I'd never done anything like this before, but despite a few bumps along the way, I'm pleased with how the final result looks. It's a definite conversation piece when people see it for the first time, and it's highly functional for our day to day use. Over the coming years it will be easy enough for me to swap out and upgrade components if need be, all without impacting the overall design. I'm very happy indeed with my digital wall.</p><p><em>Jason Dunn owns and operates <a href="http://www.thoughtsmedia.com/" target="_blank">Thoughts Media Inc.</a>, a company dedicated to creating the best in online communities. He enjoys <a href="http://photos.jasondunn.com/" target="_blank">photography</a>, mobile devices, <a href="http://www.jasondunn.com/" target="_blank">blogging</a>, digital media content creation/editing, and pretty much all technology. He lives in Calgary, Alberta, Canada with his lovely wife, and his sometimes obedient dog. He hopes he doesn't have to move to a new house for many years, because he likes his digital wall a lot.</em></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com//ppct/auto/1240336793.usr1.gif" /></p><p><strong>Do you enjoy using new hardware, software and accessories, then sharing your experience with others? Then join us on the <a href="http://www.thoughtsmedia.com/reviewteam.php" target="_blank">Thoughts Media Review Team</a>! We're looking for individuals who find it fun to test new gear and give their honest opinions about the experience. It's a volunteer role with some great perks. Interested? <a href="http://www.thoughtsmedia.com/reviewteam.php" target="_blank">Then click here for more information.</a></strong></p><p><img src="http://images.thoughtsmedia.com//ppct/auto/1240336793.usr1.gif" /></p>

Cold Flame
05-25-2009, 06:29 PM
Unfortunate about all the bad events that transpired, but the end result is beautiful and looks great. I'm jealous! =)

It's amazing how much the "orangey" stones in your fireplace "pop" now that you changed the colour to a more warm & earthy tone.

All in all, nice work. It looks fantastic.

Jason Dunn
05-25-2009, 06:43 PM
Glad you liked the results!

It's amazing how much the "orangey" stones in your fireplace "pop" now that you changed the colour to a more warm & earthy tone.

Actually, the lighting in the first photo (the "before") was just really shoddy - the "after" photo was done with a proper flash. The paint colour is 99% the same, it's just a more accurate photo.

Macguy59
05-26-2009, 01:51 AM
I like it but would opt for shorter objects on the mantle. They are just high enough to draw attention rather than help to frame the display.

ptyork
05-26-2009, 02:05 AM
Very nice, Jason! I like the shelves. I'd not have been brave enough to do something quite so organic and asymmetrical, but it worked out exceedingly well (even if they do look like something from the creators of "Wow Wow Wubbzy!"). ;) I'm definitely impressed with the vision and the results. Congrats!

FWIW, getting wood to look good with a dark stain is very hard. You need good quality wood, some wood conditioner, and lots of skill. I really suck at finishing wood, though I consider myself a decent carpenter. So I can certainly sympathize with your family friend.

mrozema
05-26-2009, 02:21 AM
I love that "finished product" photo. I can't get enough! :D

Kacey Green
05-26-2009, 03:06 AM
Looks great.

What about the Zune 3.0 full screen visualisations? They look pretty nifty and work great in the background.

Chris Gohlke
05-26-2009, 03:43 AM
Those shelves are fantastic!

stlbud
05-26-2009, 01:57 PM
Looks great! It's very symmetrical without being absolutely symmetrical.

I have one question though. I've noticed a lot of people put large screen displays above their fireplaces. Besides your comment about the uncomfortable angle I can't help but wonder of the heat from the fireplace. Is there something I'm missing? Isn't the heat from the fireplace have the potential to overheat the display?

Thanks for telling the whole story.

Jason Dunn
05-26-2009, 06:25 PM
FWIW, getting wood to look good with a dark stain is very hard. You need good quality wood, some wood conditioner, and lots of skill. I really suck at finishing wood, though I consider myself a decent carpenter. So I can certainly sympathize with your family friend.

Interesting - I didn't realize it was so challenging. If that's what he thought going into this project, what I would have hoped for was honesty - I'd rather have been told "I'm not sure I can do that - it's really difficult" and been given the opportunity to paint it black right from the start. It would have saved some headaches...

Jason Dunn
05-26-2009, 06:30 PM
What about the Zune 3.0 full screen visualisations? They look pretty nifty and work great in the background.

The problem with the Zune software is twofold: it doesn't have a ten-foot interface, and it's not remote-control friendly. Having to grab the IR keyboard every time I want to switch the music would suck. The remote can be used to navigate from song to song with an album, but there's no way to jump to a new album using only the remote. So, sadly, no dice. :(

Jason Dunn
05-26-2009, 06:56 PM
Isn't the heat from the fireplace have the potential to overheat the display?

I thought about that a fair bit, but a few things convinced me it wasn't going to be a problem:

1) We turn on the fireplace maybe six times a year, if that
2) The odds that we'd turn on the fireplace and watch TV there are the same time are quite low
3) I tested the scenario out by turning on the fireplace, leaving it running for about 15 minutes, and doing a "hand test" of temperature below and above the mantle...the heat dissipated outward more than upward, so I don't think there's any potential for overheating the TV

So while that's not terribly scientific of me, those are my reasons...I'll certainly report back if the fireplace blows up my TV. :D

BevHoward
05-26-2009, 11:03 PM
Really beautiful Jason, congrats.

Had to laugh at myself when I thought about the term "digital wall" I finished a similar project about a year ago, and, by the same parameters, it should be described as a "digital ceiling"

Couple of "thoughts" for you;

Consider a BT keyboard and mouse... specifically the microsoft wireless presenter mouse (which is BT even though it's not listed as such)

Bluetooth has better range than the ir keyboard and is not subject to "line of sight" issues. I started with the ms ir keyboard but gave up on it when I experimented with BT.

Look at the Harmony Universal Remotes... they have a learning curve, but cover most if not all bases including the ability to issue the MCE ir commands of the MCE remote. The 500 and 600 series are the most reasonable... I use a 620 which was $70 at costco and prefer it to the more expensive models.

Hope you implimented a full 7.1 or at least 5.1 audio layout and are wired digital to the amp rather than rca... makes a HUGE difference in movie experience and is worth the extra effort to get it set up correctly.

fwiw, our (completely different) approach to the same project is documented at

http://bevhoward.com/Misc/IR/205MediaRoom.htm

Enjoy it!
Beverly Howard
(ps, did the Gecko ever show up?)

Eriq Cook
05-27-2009, 07:13 AM
The problem with the Zune software is twofold: it doesn't have a ten-foot interface, and it's not remote-control friendly. Having to grab the IR keyboard every time I want to switch the music would suck. The remote can be used to navigate from song to song with an album, but there's no way to jump to a new album using only the remote. So, sadly, no dice. :(

Agree that Microsoft should make Zune desktop software remote friendly somehow like they do with Media Center...maybe even change the interface a little and give people option to make things bigger for viewing from a TV. Who knows if this will really happen but think it makes all the sense in the world to do.

I use my zune software from the big screen all the time--and it sucks--but it's better collection method than Windows Media Center.

T_Scheen
05-27-2009, 07:55 AM
Looks really great - especially the shelves.
Personally, if I had money to burn (4000€), I would have gone for a real cinema screen in 21:9 format (Philips Cinema)
http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadgethd.com/media/2009/02/2-5-09-philips-cinema-21-9.jpg

firedog
05-27-2009, 03:50 PM
I've also got a Duet and had some connection/networking problems with it.

My solutions:

a) I setup my router to give the PC server network cards, the Duet controller, and the Duet receiver permanent IP's. (I even matched them to the MAC addresses.) That solved many of the problems.

I think I found this suggestion at the Logitech Slim Devices forums, where it was mentioned that giving the system permanent IP's solves many network related problems with the unit. Ditto matching the IP's to MAC addresses of the hardware.

BTW, the Slim Devices forums are a great resource, and even the developer/CEO participates on a regular basis.

b) I also setup the network to only use WEP 64 bit encryption.

Since implementing these two solutions, I haven't had any network problems or dropouts with the Duet.

Hope this helps you.

Jason Dunn
05-27-2009, 11:40 PM
Consider a BT keyboard and mouse... specifically the microsoft wireless presenter mouse (which is BT even though it's not listed as such)

Good idea - but do they make "all in one" keyboards like the Microsoft keyboard? Having a stand-alone mouse would be a pain I think - I like having both the mouse and keyboard in the same place. I'm fortunate in that I put the IR receiver on top of the HP Slimline, and it has great range and sweeps the whole area.

Look at the Harmony Universal Remotes... they have a learning curve, but cover most if not all bases including the ability to issue the MCE ir commands of the MCE remote.

I have a Harmony remote for my main TV room, and it's great! I don't know that I'd really need one for this room though - remember it's just the TV and the computer. No amp, no DVD player, etc. The Microsoft keyboard has buttons on it that turn off/on both the TV and the computer. So two button pressed and I'm up and running. I also have the MCE remote if I don't want to use the keyboard to control things. Once I add an HD receiver/PVR into the mix, which I'm planning on doing, I'll very likely get a Harmony remote.

Hope you implimented a full 7.1 or at least 5.1 audio layout and are wired digital to the amp rather than rca... makes a HUGE difference in movie experience and is worth the extra effort to get it set up correctly.

Nope, just a 2.1 system. I talk about why here:

Digital Home Thoughts: My Digital Wall Audio Conundrum: Powered or Non-Powered Speakers? (http://www.digitalhomethoughts.com/news/show/90139/)

"The question is, what's the best audio solution? The LG plasma TV I picked looks gorgeous hanging on a wall, so I didn't entertain the notion of putting one of those surround-sound bars on the bottom for more than a nanosecond - that would just look hideous. I briefly pondered trying to get a 5.1 system set up, but that didn't last long: having to hack into my ceiling for the rear channels would be messy, and since this isn't the primary movie-watching location in my house, it's overkill. There's also the question of where to put the centre channel. So I settled on a 2.1 system, which will be much easier to wire. Ah, wires! I want no wires to be visible when looking at this wall, so I have to be smart about how I position the speakers."

I've got my Blu-ray player running HDMI to the amp, digital all the way, and my 5.1 system hooked up the 72" TV upstairs in the media room. This is the "backup" movie TV. :D

(ps, did the Gecko ever show up?)

It did, thank you - I was sure that I emailed you about it, but in looking at my Sent Items folder, it seems I didn't. My apologies. :o

Jason Dunn
05-27-2009, 11:41 PM
Looks really great - especially the shelves.
Personally, if I had money to burn (4000€), I would have gone for a real cinema screen in 21:9 format (Philips Cinema)

The Philips Cinema is beautiful to look at, but unless you only watch movies and don't watch HD TV, I think it would be a waste. You'd be trading one aspect ratio problem for another one. That's my 2 cents at any rate. :)

Jason Dunn
05-27-2009, 11:42 PM
a) I setup my router to give the PC server network cards, the Duet controller, and the Duet receiver permanent IP's. (I even matched them to the MAC addresses.) That solved many of the problems.

Cool, thanks, I'll have to give that a try...

BevHoward
05-28-2009, 05:16 PM
>> Having a stand-alone mouse would be a pain <<

I find exactly the opposite... a mouse can normally do 90% of what I normally need to do in a "media" type experience and is easier to handle in the dark without a table.

>> I'll very likely get a Harmony remote. <<

Links that might be valuable...

http://bevhoward.com/Misc/IR/HarmonyAdvFaq.html
http://bevhoward.com/Misc/IR/HarmCompare.html
http://bevhoward.com/Misc/IR/HarmCompare.html#Media

>> Nope, just a 2.1 system. I talk about why here: <<

Oh, mannnn, 7.1/5.1 is _so_ worth the effort!!!

As you mention, it was a royal pain the in ass to get it set up... while the wiring and speaker mounting were hard do deal with, the amplifier setup, testing and tuning were a close second.

Watched a movie that implemented it the night I got it finished and my jaw dropped for most of the movie starting with the THX jingle... an indescribably different viewing experience.

Again, congrats,
Beverly

BevHoward
05-28-2009, 05:19 PM
>> Nope, just a 2.1 system. <<

Is the subwoofer derived off of the left/right like computer speakers use or are you using the subwoofer preamp output from the amp? (makes a difference)

The same goes for the link from the source as well... if you have digital audio out of from them, use that and _don't connect_ the left/right rca analog audio connections between the source and amplifier.

Beverly

Mikeisme
05-28-2009, 07:02 PM
If you do not mind, can you please provide some idea of how much a project like this cost? I am most interested in what it cost to have the shelves built and the wires run.

Thanks!

Lee Yuan Sheng
05-28-2009, 07:41 PM
Really stupid question... but is there a sofa facing the TV? :P

Jason Dunn
05-28-2009, 08:23 PM
I find exactly the opposite... a mouse can normally do 90% of what I normally need to do in a "media" type experience and is easier to handle in the dark without a table.

Where do you use the mouse though? Do you have it on a table or something? I guess that's where I'm stuck - the thought of having a mouse on my coffee table just seems wrong. As you can tell, esthetics matter to me a great deal, so I'm trying to keep the visible parts as non-geeky as possible. That's why I like the all in one keyboard+mouse idea.

Watched a movie that implemented it the night I got it finished and my jaw dropped for most of the movie starting with the THX jingle... an indescribably different viewing experience.

Yup, 5.1 sound is fantastic - I have a set of Orb Audio speakers set up, and it rocks for movies. Not sure if you read the article I pointed you to, but the speakers get used for music 95% of the time, so music-focused, self-powered speakers were a better solution for me than non-powered speakers that required an amp. Glad you're happy with your setup though. :)

Jason Dunn
05-28-2009, 08:31 PM
Is the subwoofer derived off of the left/right like computer speakers use or are you using the subwoofer preamp output from the amp? (makes a difference)

There is no amp. These are computer speakers connected to the amp. They sound phenomenal, trust me. Read my review of them to see why.

The same goes for the link from the source as well... if you have digital audio out of from them, use that and _don't connect_ the left/right rca analog audio connections between the source and amplifier.

There is no digital inputs on the speakers - I talk about that in the articles. It's 3.5mm analog plugs end to end. Still sounds fantastic.

mrozema
05-29-2009, 10:49 PM
Where do you use the mouse though? Do you have it on a table or something? I guess that's where I'm stuck - the thought of having a mouse on my coffee table just seems wrong. As you can tell, esthetics matter to me a great deal, so I'm trying to keep the visible parts as non-geeky as possible. That's why I like the all in one keyboard+mouse idea.

Jason,
Try this keyboard/mouse combo. The keyboard has a "D pad" that turns into a touchpad at the flick of a switch.

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX17302(ME).aspx (http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX17302%28ME%29.aspx)

Bluetooth keyboards and mice may have their advantages, but consider that they are interfaced with software that resides on a PC that is never going to be 100% reliable. Also, each device usually defaults to a sleep mode after a period of unuse. The next time you use that device, it must wake up and re-establish it's software "pairing". If you're like me and demand instant results this lag, which is only fractions of a second, can seem to be the most frustrating thing in the world. RF keyboard/mouse combos generally do not have this issue.
Just to be clear though, I have not used every wireless keyboard or mouse in the world, but this has been my experience.

Jason Dunn
05-29-2009, 11:04 PM
Try this keyboard/mouse combo. The keyboard has a "D pad" that turns into a touchpad at the flick of a switch.

Umm...why do you and Bev think I need a new mouse/keyboard? I didn't complain about my current one, I did? There's really nothing wrong with it guys...it works well for me. :)

mrozema
05-30-2009, 12:36 AM
Right you are.

I was referring to the advantage that particular keyboard had with the built-in pointer device. That's all.

Jason Dunn
05-30-2009, 01:10 AM
a) I setup my router to give the PC server network cards, the Duet controller, and the Duet receiver permanent IP's. (I even matched them to the MAC addresses.) That solved many of the problems.


I feel like I'm going to lose my Geek License for admitting this, but after spending 30 minutes in both the Squeezebox software configuration tool and the Linksys WRT610N admin tool, I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the Squeezebox remote and the Squeezebox player to pick up a static IP. The way I'd do this with any other wireless device would be to assign it an IP manually, outside the range of IPs that are dynamically assigned by the router, reboot it, and boom it would work. In my router, I can find a way to clamp down on wireless devices and only them access to the network based on MAC address, but I don't want to do that because that means I'd have to input hte MAC address of every device I'm connecting.

Am I missing something? How did you tell the Squeezebox to use a specific IP?

UPDATE: Sigh...I can't believe they put the static IP assignment ONLY in the setup-from-scratch on the controller. Bah! That's idiotic. They should know better than that. :mad: I now have static IPs for the controller and the Squeezebox but on my router there seems to be no way to manually match up those IPs with the MAC address of both pieces of hardware. We'll see if this improves things.

UPDATE #2: Assigning a static IP does not improve things - the Squeezebox gave me the yellow "problem connecting" symbol this morning after I woke it up from being off with the remote. Grrrrr. I don't want to have to switch back to my WRT54G, but I might have to.

BevHoward
05-30-2009, 04:18 PM
>> where to use the mouse <<

a leg works for me ;-)

>> BT reliability <<

BT devices have to "sleep" to conserve battery power... in normal use, this is only a factor if the computer is brought out of suspend, so, I've learned to move the mouse or tap a cursor arrow on the keyboard as part of the "wakeup" process.

This is a factor with USB KSU's as well when switching between boxes, so it's not BT specific, but rather an os limit.

Good thread... lot of good information here.

doogald
05-30-2009, 06:07 PM
Am I missing something? How did you tell the Squeezebox to use a specific IP?

It looks like you really do not need this, but for future info, what I would do is set a DHCP lease reservation in the WRT610N config. That will basically map the MAC addresses of any devices that you wish to have static addresses to a particular IP address in the DHCP range. Basically, any time that this particular device asks the DHCP server for an address, it will automatically get the one that you assign, and it will not assign those addresses to any other devices. This way you do not need to muck about with the device setups. This is also useful for IP printers, etc.

There is a section of the user manual for the Linksys that covers DHCP lease reservations.

FWIW, my old WRT54G did not have DHCP lease reservations, but the DD-WRT replacement firmware added that particular functionality.

Jason Dunn
05-31-2009, 12:42 AM
...set a DHCP lease reservation in the WRT610N config. That will basically map the MAC addresses of any devices that you wish to have static addresses to a particular IP address in the DHCP range.\

THANK YOU! I don't know if this will fix my problem, but after seeing the words DHCP Lease at least allowed me to find that button in the router config - I looked and looked but didn't see it there. I made the change, and will report back later to see if it helped.

Jason Dunn
07-06-2009, 07:26 PM
If you do not mind, can you please provide some idea of how much a project like this cost? I am most interested in what it cost to have the shelves built and the wires run.

Off the top of my head, it was something like this:

Electrician: $350
Dry-wallers: $250
Carpenter (shelves): $3800
TV: $2000
Computer: $1100

maryannsms
08-13-2009, 10:06 PM
I just love the way you design it. It really look so great!
Your hard work is worth it!:D